Wednesday, May 8, 2024

Why ‘White people food’ is going viral on Chinese social media


When Cai Fei visited her then-boyfriend at his house within the Netherlands in 2016, she used to be appalled to search out that breakfast and lunch consisted essentially of whole-wheat bread.

“Isn’t that a human rights violation? Two cold meals a day was just too much for my Chinese stomach,” stated Cai, a Beijing-born knowledge analyst who now lives close to Amsterdam. The 35-year-old recalled how surprised her spouse used to be the following day, when she whipped up a two-course lunch of thinly sliced flank steak with crimson and inexperienced bell peppers in a savory sauce, in addition to scrambled eggs and tomato stir fry.

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When she attempted to prepare dinner some other meal, he refused to partake, insisting that no Dutch particular person has a “big lunch” on a daily basis. Instead, he had bread, although he did purchase Cai a “most exciting” native deal with: buttered bread with chocolate sprinkles, or Hagelslag.

For years, Cai idea she used to be by myself in disparaging the bland chilly cuts, lukewarm salads and microwaved soups which might be staples of modern Western city existence. Then, previous this 12 months, she noticed a broadly circulated video on the Chinese way of life app Xiaohongshu depicting a passenger on a Swiss teach striking mustard onto lettuce leaves prior to stuffing them into her mouth with chilly cuts.

A brand new low for “White people food,” graduate pupil Huang Jinglan wrote within the caption of the clip she filmed.

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To David Chang, the ‘ethnic’ meals aisle is racist. Others say it’s handy.

Mocking “White people food” is all of the rage on China’s closely censored web. Tens of 1000’s of people — lots of them Chinese electorate dwelling in a foreign country — have joined Huang within the social media development of sharing their bland workday foods with the hashtag #WhitePeopleFood. Photos of unseasoned hen breast, poached eggs, celery sticks, baked beans and dry crackers abound.

Eating those meals for lunch is to “learn what it feels like to be dead,” one person quipped on the Weibo microblogging carrier.

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In China, place of job employees incessantly consult with close by Chinese eating places and meals courts for a cheap noon meal or deliver lunchboxes ready at house the evening prior to. For value and comfort causes, that’s now not in most cases an possibility for Chinese people dwelling in a foreign country, like Huang, a 29-year-old pupil in St. Gallen, Switzerland.

“But having too much of it can drain the soul and human warmth out of you,” stated Huang, who tries to make up for the loss of taste with sizzling sauces.

She additionally obeys the unstated rule that “White people food” must now not be shared, “because we shall not punish others with our self-torture.”

Cultural observers in China say the mockery round #WhitePeopleFood is blameless, and that many Chinese people who use the time period experience dwelling or running within the West.

“Most Chinese use it as a [form of] self-irony, without any bad intent or the awareness of racial sensitivity in the U.S.,” stated present affairs commentator Hong Guangyu, who research social media traits.

Huang Jinglan noticed a lady consuming a bag of lettuce and a chilly reduce wrap for lunch on a teach right through her shuttle to Zurich from Lindau, Germany, on May 23. (Video: Huang Jinglan)

China’s upwardly cellular center categories have ate up Western meals ceaselessly for the reason that overdue Nineteen Nineties, when world go back and forth took off and people started taking delight in being worldly. But extra Chinese people are steadily swapping soup and noodle dishes for salads and sandwiches as the rustic urbanizes and rising numbers in finding employment within the non-public sector. (Giant state-affiliated enterprises incessantly have workforce canteens.)

Unlike the ones early adopters, more youthful converts see “White people food” as simply out there sustenance — now not as a standing image. “The love and appreciation of food has served as a significant cultural identity and a means of social bonding for people with a Chinese background,” stated Wei Shuihua, a meals author primarily based in Hangzhou, a southeastern town that is the house of slow-cooked beggar’s hen.

“For burned-out urban professionals, the removal of pleasure from a work lunch” symbolizes how they simply “eat to work,” he stated.

The reactions round “White people food” remind probably the most stigma that almost all Asian delicacies has lengthy confronted within the United States. The Korean American chef and YouTube famous person Maangchi, as an example, has written of boiling soup soy sauce outdoor her area, “where no one will complain.”

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“Persistent stigma against Chinese food was closely linked to histories of anti-Chinese sentiment in the U.S.,” stated the Chinese American TikToker Lisa Li, a social activist who co-founded a business magazine for Chinese eating places in New York.

Chinese meals used to be incessantly categorised dangerous and Chinese eating places unsanitary, she stated — a belief that has shifted over many years with the upward thrust of Chinese American superstar cooks and writers. Li added that the “evaporation of prestige associated with American food corresponds with the Chinese public’s growing disillusionment” with the United States in an technology of intense geopolitical and financial competition.

“White people food” does have its Chinese defenders, together with people who say such low-carb foods assist them steer clear of postprandial “food comas” and keep wakeful for paintings within the afternoon. Others say it has helped them reduce weight. Some have extensively utilized the time stored from the minimum cooking and dish washing for recreational.

Chinese state media has weighed in, too, bringing up dietitians who argue that such foods “are not for everyone.”

“This unbalanced diet does little to satiate hunger: It may not meet your daily needs,” Sun Yuanyuan, head of the medical vitamin division at Hefei No. 2 People’s Hospital, advised the state-owned China Food News.



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