Méli is the newest from Eastern Point Collective, puts to consume and drink at the Hill — the Duck & the Peach, La Collina, the Wells — from founder Hollis Wells Silverman, the previous leader running officer with ThinkFoodGroup in DC. Before the pandemic, the Silva’s developer, EastBanc, enlisted her to get a hold of a eating amenity for its citizens. A survey of Adams Morgan — cuisines it had and lacked — led Wells Silverman to signify one thing Greek.
Conveniently, the chief chef is Katarina Petonito, additionally the highest toque on the Duck & the Peach, who is aware of from hummus and skewers, having cooked a large number of Greek in her profession, maximum not too long ago on the overdue Kapnos Kouzina in Bethesda. Her chef de delicacies at Méli is Keri Wieczorek, who attended the CIA — make that the Culinary Institute of America — similtaneously Petonito, and went directly to paintings at such numerous eating places as Vidalia, Ripple and Rappahannock Oyster Bar. Their menu is sufficiently small that two of you need to graze via it in a few visits, however with enough diversions to stay you coming again.
Here’s our outdated good friend hummus, creamy chickpeas pulsing with garlic and cumin and spark off with cash of roasted carrot and fiery harissa “crunch.” A unfold of roasted pink peppers and Fresno chiles arrives with a carpet of tangy feta cheese and a few great warmth from harissa. For steadiness, there’s tzatziki, cool with cucumber and yogurt. For $28, you’ll get all 3 beneficiant dips, which include the selection of heat pita bread or robust fried pita chips. Both make excellent scoops, however the fried ones are like Doritos in my space: unhealthy.
Méli interprets from Greek to “honey” and “members,” an apt name for a venue this is zoned as a club and costs a $25 annual club rate for 2 diners (or $50 for as much as 5). There’s no onerous promote. Walk in and not using a reservation, and the group of workers in brief explains the deal. Patrons can check out ahead of they purchase. The cash, minus credit card processing charges, is going to the group Reed Cooke Club, which distributes it to ten or so native nonprofits, together with Christ House, Jubilee Jobs and Sitar Arts Center. For the cost of a few cocktails, subscribers can perform a little excellent out of doors the Silva’s partitions. (Residents get unfastened club; takeout and supply don’t require signing up.)
Beyond the dips, there are gigante beans, their pink pepper sauce enlivened with sherry vinegar, and falafel, their facilities shiny inexperienced with cilantro, dill and parsley. The fritters are served with parsley, onion and mint, what Petonito calls a “universal salad” for its talent to compare with anything else. (Membership has its privileges; the falafel are despatched out as a free of charge welcome after you enroll.) In overdue summer season, the mezze spoke to the season with runner beans, charred at the grill and sprinkled with Aleppo pepper. The most effective small plate I didn’t wish to end used to be a strong slice of halloumi whose strawberry and honey accents tasted like breakfast-bordering-on-dessert for dinner.
Given the frequency with which restaurant visits any place start with a server asking, “Any allergies or dietary restrictions?,” it’s great to peer the pro-active method taken through Méli, whose menu lists allergens along costs. The restaurant additionally provides a $10 youngsters meal this is certain to make oldsters glad: grilled hen introduced with orzo, excellent and inexperienced with spinach pesto, and no matter fruit is in season.
A segment referred to as “Off the grill” gathers skewered dishes: meat (ropy red meat and lamb), vegetable (mushrooms, onions and eggplant) and hen souvlaki. (The floor meat possibility is juicy if infrequently salty. The hen alternatives up savor from its paste of oregano, thyme, lemon and olive oil.) There also are prawns, sassy with lemon and harissa. Keeping their heads on guarantees the prawns don’t dry out after they’re cooked. Any dinner is best with a cocktail to begin (scorching nights had been cooler for a daiquiri infused with cucumber juice and oregano) and a bowl of golden baked, fried potatoes embedded within the “universal” salad.
Any meal could also be enhanced through the wine provider from normal supervisor Danya Degen, additionally a sunny presence at the back of the bar, which appears to be a draw for the development’s citizens, who wander in from the foyer. Degen, who moved over from the Duck & the Peach and prior to now served as wine director at Little Pearl, takes her Greek wines, however no longer their descriptions, critically. A white wine is in comparison to “when you get ocean spray in your mouth by accident,” and a pink wine’s cherry and cola notes channel “a grown-up Dr Pepper.” Degen is all about a laugh issues of reference. Here’s a toast (clink!) to demystifying Greek wine.
The eating space is ready 30 seats, no longer together with the cafe tables parked out of doors, a vacation spot for purchasers with canines in tow or trade calls to take. The inner, which has the texture of a museum cafe, is spare and blank — and loud, no because of the kaolin clay porcelain flooring, marble tables and hovering ceiling. The clatter doesn’t stay buyers from lingering over wine or the airy milk pudding speckled with vanilla bean paste and scented with orange blossom water. A end of candied orange peel delivers a mild crackle.
Since rolling out, Méli has ditched counter provider and QR codes; Degen says no person used to be ordering wines they couldn’t pronounce with out some face time with group of workers who may just. The cooks also are trying out some recent concepts. Petonito forecasts some greater dishes, together with complete fish and hen, and perhaps breakfast later this yr.
I’m a reluctant joiner. But I’m making an exception for Méli — particularly now that I do know the place to search out it.
1630 Columbia Rd. NW. 202-978-2333. melidc.com. Open for indoor and out of doors eating and takeout and supply 4 to ten p.m. Tuesday via Saturday. Prices: appetizers $7 to $28, skewers $10 to $35. Sound test: 77 decibels/Must talk with raised voice. Accessibility: No boundaries to access; ADA-compliant restrooms.